U-Pierpaolo Piccioli, umqondisi wokudala we-Maison Valentino, ubelokhu ekholelwa njalo ukuthi umbala uwumzila onamandla wokuxhumana okusheshayo nokuqondile futhi ubulokhu usetshenziswa njengendlela yokubuyisela umbono kanye nokuhlola kabusha ifomu nokusebenza. Eqoqweni le-Valentino Le Noir Autumn/Winter 2024-25, u-Pierpaolo Piccioli uvakashela kabusha u-Valentino ngelensi emnyama - hhayi ukungabi khona kombala, noma ukuvivinya umzimba okukodwa noma okuyisidina, kodwa ukutholwa kwamathoni amaningi acashile ngaphakathi kwe-hue eyodwa .
Njengombala, omnyama ngokwawo ubulokhu unezincazelo nezincazelo eziningi, uguquguquka njalo futhi ubonwa yibo bonke. Izinhlobo zamaNegro ka-Mark Rothko, amaNegro akhanyayo ka-Pierre Soulages kanye namaNegro aqoshiwe ka-Constantin Braâncuși aveza ububanzi bohlelo lolimi okuwulimi lwesiNigro. Umnyama umele indawo yonke kanye nobuntu, ubunye kanye ne-idiosyncrasy. Ukusebenza kwayo ngokomzimba kuhlukile kweminye imibala futhi iyakwazi ukumunca ukukhanya. Kuhlolisiswa ukujula kwayo, kuhlongozwe isilulumagama esimnyama. Ngokufanayo, ngokwefilosofi, imunca izincazelo zamasiko namathonya, izinkumbulo nezincazelo esizivezayo. Lapha, umbala omnyama ungaba umbala ongasanguluki kodwa onika amandla, ukuvukela ezothando, ukugqama okugqamile kopinki okhanyayo.
Umbala wansuku zonke, lapha omnyama uyakhuliswa futhi usetshenziselwe ukubhala kabusha izimpawu nezimpawu zika-Valentino - ama-rosette, ama-ruffles, i-embroidery, i-lace. Ukucabanga kabusha amakhodi abstract ka-Valentino, ama-volants kanye ne-plissé njenge-chiaroscuro, kuyilapho ulimi lwayo lwe-sartorial luhunyushwa ezingutsheni, ukuba sengozini kunikeza amandla. Amaphethini, imifekethiso nezindwangu kunikeza abamnyama impilo ehlukile - le nqubo ebizwa ngokuthi u-Valentino Altorilievo (Usizo Oluphezulu) lwenziwa nge-tulle, iwe njengethunzi emzimbeni wonke. Ama-velvets aqinile nama-creams anikeza izimo ukuthungwa okuqoshiwe, kuyilapho iveyili ye-chiffon igone isikhumba. Emkhathini omnyama, ukuthinta okuthathwe esikhathini esidlule kungaba kusha, kubukwe ngama-engeli amasha, kunikezwe ubunikazi obuhlukile. I-silhouette ye-archetypal ka-Valentino, enemigqa yayo ekhangayo namahlombe achaziwe, ngokungangabazeki ethathwe kusukela ngeminyaka yawo-1980s, ibuye yavakashelwa ngaphandle kokulangazelela futhi iwubonisa ngokucacile umzimba wanamuhla. I-counterpoint emnyama, phakathi kokukhanya nokuqina, ngaleso sikhathi futhi manje.
Abantu abansundu bangaphonsela inselelo futhi bahlukane nenkolelo-ze—futhi, njengoba u-Baudelaire asikisela, babe nendawo kuntando yeningi yabo. Imini nobusuku kuyafiphala ndawonye futhi ama-silhouette ayigugu nemihlobiso kunikezwa iqiniso elisha nokufaneleka. Njengoba uthi "Roso Valentino", singasho ukuthi "Black Valentino".
Mayelana noValentinoValentino
I-Maison Valentino yasungulwa ngo-1960 nguValentino Garavani noGiancarlo Giammetti. U-Valentino ungumlingiswa wemfashini yamazwe ngamazwe futhi kusukela ngo-2008 kuya ku-2016 uthole inguquko yokudala enethonya.
Umndeni wakwa-Valentino udlala indima ebalulekile emkhakheni wokunethezeka ngokusebenzisa isiko nokusungula izinto ezintsha, inhlanganisela edingekayo yezimboni zokudala ezikhiqiza ubuhle.
U-Valentino ungomunye wabaholi embonini yezemfashini yamazwe ngamazwe futhi ukholelwa enanini eliphakeme elengeziwe elilethwa umbono wayo wemfashini womhlaba wonke nge-haute couture, i-Prêtà-Porter, izesekeli ze-Valentino Garavani, uchungechunge lwezingubo zamehlo neziqholo olunelayisensi ngokubambisana ne-L'Oréal.
Mayelana ne-Akoni Group
Iqembu le-Akoni likholelwa ngokuqinile ukuthi izingubo zamehlo kufanele zibe umkhiqizo wokunethezeka weqiniso, hhayi nje esinye isisetshenziswa esengeziwe, futhi ihlose ukugqama ngokuzibophezela kwayo okungantengantengi kwezobuciko, ubuchwepheshe kanye nekhwalithi. Le nkampani yasungulwa ngo-2019 yi-CEO yeqembu u-Rosario Toscano kanye noMqondisi Wokudala u-Salma Rachid ukuze bakhuthaze amanani abo okwabelwana ngawo, izintshisekelo zabo kanye nezinkanuko.
Ukukhiqizwa kwe-Akoni Group kwenzeka ezinkundleni zokuxhumana ezihamba phambili emhlabeni wonke e-Japan, kusetshenziswa kuphela izinto ezisezingeni eliphezulu kanye namasu okukhiqiza ahamba phambili ahlonishwa isikhathi. Izingcweti zezingcweti zinikela amashumi eminyaka ezimpilo zazo ukuze zifunde ubuciko bazo futhi zidlulisele ulwazi lwazo ezizukulwaneni ngezizukulwane. Yonke ihinge, ithempeli kanye nengxenye esetshenzisiwe kucatshangelwe kahle futhi kwakhiwe ngendlela eyingqayizivele. Iqembu le-Akoni lidizayina kuqala isimo somuntu, lisebenzisa imiqondo engokoqobo nezinto ezintsha ukuze liduduze, ebuhleni, lilingane futhi lisebenze. Uhlaka ngalunye lubonisa uhambo oluyingqayizivele ukusuka kumqondo kuya esakhiweni. Abekho abenzi bezibuko zamehlo abangcono emhlabeni.
Uma ufuna ukwazi okwengeziwe mayelana nezitayela zemfashini yezibuko kanye nokubonisana nezimboni, sicela uvakashele iwebhusayithi yethu futhi usithinte noma nini.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Apr-11-2024